Lisa G Saw • September 10, 2023

A Day Trip To Wiltshire

April 2023 marked the end of my quest to see all the butterflies that live their complete life cycle in Sussex. The final species I saw, during the Easter weekend, was the Large Tortoiseshell. Following the exciting conclusion to my adventure, I wrote a post about Discovering the Butterflies of Sussex. In it I mentioned how chuffed I was with what I'd achieved and how I didn't really want to start the next obvious quest straight away, to see all the UK butterfly species. But, with the spring and summer months stretching out before me, it seemed silly not to make a start this year. Bob and I were still in the early stages of our budding romance, and the idea of spending a lovely long day out together was just too enticing to pass up. So, in late May, we headed over to Martin Down National Nature Reserve in Wiltshire, in the hope of seeing the Marsh Fritillary. It would be my first, but not for Bob. He's already seen all the UK butterfly species, except for the Cryptic Wood White, which is only found in Ireland.


We woke super early and reached the nature reserve by 8am. Unsurprisingly, we were the first ones there. It was still quite cool and a little windy, but nice enough to enjoy our breakfast sitting on a bench by the car park, overlooking the wildflower meadow and the hills just beyond to the south. We heard a Cuckoo calling nearby - an unmistakable sound of spring. Lovely! It was a great start to the day.

Before we set off along the path, I made sure the bottom of my trousers were tucked into my socks. This is a necessary step to prevent ticks finding their way to my skin. It's not full-proof mind! But it worked on this occasion!


Rather than walk along the main track, we followed a narrower path along the edge of the meadow, keeping our eyes open for anything of interest. I just happened to glance down towards the grass on my left and saw this gorgeous little Grizzled Skipper with its wings wide open, warming up. It was my first of the year. It's the second smallest butterfly in the UK and a real cutie, as far as I'm concerned!


Further along our walk, but still quite early, we saw some more of them in a more dense bit of vegetation. It was hard for me to get a clear shot of them with so much distracting background, but I was rather pleased with the second one shown here, which is quite nicely backlit. I enjoy taking these kinds of shots. I had to get down really low to be at its eye level, but by doing so, it makes me feel like I'm in its world.

A Yellowhammer and Corn Bunting were both heard, then seen, at the top of the hedgerow alongside the path. Shortly after, I spotted a male Goldfinch drinking from a puddle of water on the track. It was too quick for me, and flew off before I was able to get a sharp image. A male Stonechat was also teasing me. It was posing on the tops of the lower shrubs and trees, but never settling for long. I tried sneaking up on it, slowly and quietly, whilst Bob waited patiently back on the path. He wasn't bothered with getting a shot. But, as luck would have it, when I tried to get closer to the Stonechat, it flew away from me and landed much closer to Bob, posing nicely. He couldn't resist a quick snap and got the shot I wanted! Of course! I didn't hold it against him. That's the way it goes sometimes. I certainly couldn't complain, as a little later I was able to photograph this juvenile Stonechat that was far less flighty. It just looked stunning with the Hawthorn in full blossom all around it.

Lots of people have been noticing how amazing the Hawthorn blossom has been this year. I've never seen it look so good. Some trees were white and others a lovely soft pink colour. It was quite breathtaking!

Early in the morning I spotted a few Hairy Shieldbugs, which are a little different to the ones I usually see on my walks. I was also very pleased to see an Adder basking in the sun at the foot of the hedgerow. Bob spotted it first - he's got eagle eyes! It's just one of the many reasons why he's such a good tour guide! I was certainly happy to be having my own private tour with him. He's so knowledgeable! He explained that the snake was ready to shed its skin - referred to as sloughing - and that you can tell because of the colour of its eyes, which have turned opaque.

We finally reached the bank where we could potentially start spotting Marsh Fritillaries, but it was still quite cool and we didn't have any joy. However, the sun was shining and there were plenty of other butterflies to photograph. It was fabulous seeing them all flitting about just above the ground or vegetation. They were everywhere. I almost didn't know what to photograph. All of them were species I'd not yet seen for the year.


I started with the Grizzled Skipper, which I mentioned earlier. Then I moved on to the Adonis Blues and found a mating pair. Although this wasn't a first for me for this species, it's still such a thrill when I find two butterflies mating. I've only been fortunate enough to see it a handful of times, with only a few species.


It's definitely a lot easier to distinguish the difference between the sexes when you find a pair together. The male is the paler of the two on the underwing. You can see a slight hint of the fabulous blue on his upperwing and it's blue furry abdomen. I really like the lovely brown colour of the female's underwings. She's also brown on top, so very different to the male.


In this same area, we also saw Brown Argus. The first photo is of a female. She looks lovely and fresh, with no niks or marks on her. The shape of the abdomen is a great way to tell the difference between the sexes with most species of butterfly (when their wings are open). The female you can see has a slightly thicker, rounder and shorter abdomen than the male. Notice how it doesn't quite reach the end of the hindwing.


The male, seen in the second photo, has a much thinner and longer abdomen, which extends beyond the edge of the hindwing. It also doesn't look as fresh, though it's not in bad shape. The male of the butterflies species are usually first to emerge, so they can mate with the females as soon as they emerge.


You might be wondering how to tell the difference between male and female Brown Argus with the female Adonis Blue, since I mentioned it's brown on the upperwing and no photo is shown. Firstly, the Brown Argus is much smaller. Secondly, they have very distinct orange lunules at the edges of all the wings, whereas you'll find a tiny bit of blue next to the orange in the hindwing of the Adonis Blue females.

We finally reached the bank where we could potentially start spotting Marsh Fritillaries, but it was still quite cool and we didn't have any joy. However, the sun was shining and there were plenty of other butterflies to photograph. It was fabulous seeing them all flitting about just above the ground or vegetation. They were everywhere. I almost didn't know what to photograph. All of them were species I'd not yet seen for the year.


I started with the Grizzled Skipper, which I mentioned earlier. Then I moved on to the Adonis Blues and found a mating pair. Although this wasn't a first for me for this species, it's still such a thrill when I find two butterflies mating. I've only been fortunate enough to see it a handful of times, with only a few species.


It's definitely a lot easier to distinguish the difference between the sexes when you find a pair together. The male is the paler of the two on the underwing. You can see a slight hint of the fabulous blue on his upperwing and it's blue furry abdomen. I really like the lovely brown colour of the female's underwings. She's also brown on top, so very different to the male.

In this same area, we also saw Brown Argus. The first photo is of a female. She looks lovely and fresh, with no niks or marks on her. The shape of the abdomen is a great way to tell the difference between the sexes with most species of butterfly (when their wings are open). The female you can see has a slightly thicker, rounder and shorter abdomen than the male. Notice how it doesn't quite reach the end of the hindwing.


The male, seen in the second photo, has a much thinner and longer abdomen, which extends beyond the edge of the hindwing. It also doesn't look as fresh, though it's not in bad shape. The male of the butterflies species are usually first to emerge, so they can mate with the females as soon as they emerge.


You might be wondering how to tell the difference between male and female Brown Argus with the female Adonis Blue, since I mentioned it's brown on the upperwing and no photo is shown. Firstly, the Brown Argus is much smaller. Secondly, they have very distinct orange lunules at the edges of all the wings, whereas you'll find a tiny bit of blue next to the orange in the hindwing of the Adonis Blue females.

We continued to follow the path alongside the ditch and shortly after, I spotted my first Small Blue of the year. It's one of my favourite butterflies. I'd only seen them a few times before. There had to have been over a hundred seen thoughout the course of the day. I stopped to photograph the first few, but then I became more selective. It became a bit of a running joke with us, 'Oh look! Another Small Blue! And another!' What was lovely on this occasion, was seeing multiple ones together, including a male trying to win the attention of a female. Again, when you see both the sexes together, it does make it a lot easier to distinguish between them. The female is larger and fresher looking. The male, bless him, is looking a bit past its best!

We continued to follow the path alongside the ditch and shortly after, I spotted my first Small Blue of the year. It's the smallest of our British species and one of my favourite butterflies. I'd only seen them a few times before. I was now seeing loads. There had to have been over a hundred seen thoughout the course of the day. I stopped to photograph the first few, but then I became more selective. It became a bit of a running joke with us, 'Oh look! Another Small Blue! And another!' It makes me laugh now to think how difficult I'd found it when trying to see my first Small Blue. I was clearly looking in the wrong places! It definitely helps when you know of little hot spots for certain species.


What was lovely on this occasion, was seeing multiple ones together, including a male trying to win the attention of a female. Again, when you see both the sexes together, it does make it a lot easier to distinguish between them. The female is larger and fresher looking. The male, bless him, is looking a bit past its best!

We continued along the path, but there was still no sign of our target species for the day - the Marsh Fritillary. I wasn't worried or disappointed, as there was still lots of time. I remained hopeful. There was in fact a second target species for the day - the Burnt Orchid. It was another species I'd not seen before and Bob knew it's a good site for them. Bob knows how much I like to find things for myself, so he didn't point them out to me when we were very close, but he did say there was something of interest close by. Well, it didn't take long to spot them, as they were on the bank right beside the path. There were small little clusters of them dotted along the route. I love this deep colour red, so they're one of my favourite orchids.

By now, there were a few more people around, either wanting to see the orchids or the Marsh Fritillary. The latter was still being elusive, but we continued looking, walking on the bank above the ditch. It was now late morning and a lot warmer than when we'd started out.


Suddenly, I spotted a fairly large and orange butterfly with its wings wide open on the top of a plant up ahead of me. My heart leapt. Could it be what we'd patiently been waiting to see all morning? Quickly, I took a photo so I could ID it, in case it vanished. Success! At last! I'd found the first Marsh Fritillary of the day. I was thrilled! It was in really great condition, possibly newly emerged. It posed quite a few times for us, and although it flew off occasionally, it never went very far so we were able to spend quite a bit of time with it. We were also quite pleased that no one else was around at that time, so we could really enjoy the moment, just the two of us. Although, a pesky little Dingy Skipper managed to photo-bomb one of my shots!

By now, there were a few more people around, either wanting to see the orchids or the Marsh Fritillary. The latter was still being elusive, but we continued looking, walking on the bank above the ditch. It was now late morning and a lot warmer than when we'd started out.

Suddenly, I spotted a fairly large and orange butterfly with its wings wide open on the top of a plant up ahead of me. My heart leapt. Could it be what we'd patiently been waiting to see all morning? Quickly, I took a photo so I could ID it, in case it vanished. Success! At last! I'd found the first Marsh Fritillary of the day. I was thrilled! It was in really great condition, possibly newly emerged. It posed quite a few times for us, and although it flew off occasionally, it never went very far so we were able to spend quite a bit of time with it. We were also quite pleased that no one else was around at that time, so we could really enjoy the moment, just the two of us. Although, a pesky little Dingy Skipper managed to photo-bomb one of my shots!

This is a male Marsh Fritillary. Even though its abdomen is slightly more bulbous, like the female in other butterfly species, with the Marsh Fritillary, the female's abdomen is much broader than this. In this photo you can see the distinct line of orange along the rear edge of the abdomen, which the female doesn't seem to possess.

As usual, I was keen to get a few underwing shots as well as the more common pose with the upperwings fully open on display. It was also fabulous to see it nectaring.


We briefly saw one other Marsh Fritillary whilst photographing this male. The two of them briefly whirled up into the air and then the interloper vanished. By the time we'd had our fill of watching this male, we were ready to move on and eat our picnic lunch. We didn't see any more Marsh Fritillaries in this area and so began our return walk back to the car. Aside from regular sightings of 'yet another Small Blue', we also had a glimpse of a Green Hairstreak near the Burnt Orchids. This was where Bob spotted some Field Fleawort, a rarity in the UK.

On the return leg, a field was being ploughed on the other side of the ditch, outside the nature reserve. It was drawing the attention of a few Red Kites, which flew overhead. It was lovely to see them quite close.


Although there had been more people near the orchids and along that stretch of the path, it was otherwise very quiet on the reserve. It was lovely just ambling along the path, hardly passing anyone, having the peace and quiet to appreciate our surroundings. It was very hot by the afternoon and I was growing weary by the time we came to the end of the ditch. We still hadn't had any more Marsh Fritillary sightings by then, but I was very happy with our encounter with the male. I could go home happy.

On the return leg, a field was being ploughed on the other side of the ditch, outside the nature reserve. It was drawing the attention of a few Red Kites, which flew overhead. It was lovely to see them quite close.

Although there had been more people near the orchids and along that stretch of the path, it was otherwise very quiet on the reserve. It was lovely just ambling along the path, hardly passing anyone, having the peace and quiet to appreciate our surroundings. It was very hot by the afternoon and I was growing weary by the time we came to the end of the ditch. We still hadn't had any more Marsh Fritillary sightings by then, but I was very happy with our encounter with the male. I could go home happy.

Then Bob suggested we go left and follow a small track before making our way to the main path, back towards the car. He'd seen a Marsh Fritillary along there on a previous visit. Would you believe it? One was almost waiting for us, perched on a flower. I don't think either of us were able to grab a shot before it flew off and disappeared. But, it was reassuring there was another flying about. We loitered there for a while, hoping it would return, but it didn't. However, we did spot a Small Blue resting on the strap of Bob's rucksack.


We then retraced our steps back to the path. This time it was me that suggested we explore the same area we had done at the start of the day, where many of our early butterfly sightings had been. Once again, we were rewarded with a fabulous sighting of another Marsh Fritillary (top photo). It didn't take long before we were seeing lots more. Now it was a lot warmer, there was much more activity and we couldn't believe how many we saw in the area - we think there were at least 10 individuals.

Then Bob suggested we go left and follow a small track before making our way to the main path, back towards the car. He'd seen a Marsh Fritillary along there on a previous visit. Would you believe it? One was almost waiting for us, perched on a flower. I don't think either of us were able to grab a shot before it flew off and disappeared. But, it was reassuring there was another flying about. We loitered there for a while, hoping it would return, but it didn't. However, we did spot a Small Blue resting on the strap of Bob's rucksack.

We then retraced our steps back to the path. This time it was me that suggested we explore the same area we had done at the start of the day, where many of our early butterfly sightings had been. Once again, we were rewarded with a fabulous sighting of another Marsh Fritillary (top photo). It didn't take long before we were seeing lots more. Now it was a lot warmer, there was much more activity and we couldn't believe how many we saw in the area - we think there were at least 10 individuals.

It was a real turnaround, having struggled to see just two, to seeing about eight in the space of about an hour. It was wonderful walking around the banks in the area, despite the heat, capturing lots of images of these orange beauties. I was particularly pleased to have a few nice shots of them nectaring on flowers. Unfortunately, I wasn't that close to the individual that landed on a Common Spotted Orchid. Someone else was lucky enough to be closer to take that shot, which hopefully they were pleased with.


Eventually, after our long day out in the sun, we decided we'd had our fill and were ready to walk back along the path towards the car. Eager to rest and relax, I suggested we sit down on the bench again, where we'd had our breakfast at the start of the day, and enjoy some snacks before the long drive home. At first, it was lovely and peaceful. This time it was the sound of a Turtle Dove that made me smile - a sound I don't get to hear so often any more in springtime. But, no sooner had I mentioned us having a little mindfulness moment, someone started their car and music blasted out from their stereo. It was a bit of an assault on our ears! We laughed at the timing! Thankfully, they didn't stay too long.


It really was a perfect day! The only other thing that blighted the memory of it was the fact my car wouldn't start. Not great timing, especially considering it was late afternoon on a Friday before a Bank Holiday weekend. Thankfully, though, after waiting about half an hour, when I tried it again it started. Phew! I didn't dare risk turning off the engine, so we loaded everything up and headed home. Despite that glitch - it was a wonderful day spent in Wiltshire!

Marsh Fritillary

Antarctica Day 1

By Lisa G Saw • April 21, 2025
PENGUIN ISLAND We woke up to find it snowing heavily for the first time on our journey so far and I was thrilled. I love the snow! It seemed so fitting to be seeing the penguins in these cold conditions. We managed to get ashore in one of the first few zodiacs and stayed virtually until the last one, so we made the most of our landing and really enjoyed ourselves observing the penguins on the island and other wildlife. Sadly, there weren't any Adélie Penguin colonies to be found, but we saw a few Gentoo Penguins walking around.

To Antarctica

By Lisa G Saw • April 18, 2025
ONCE MORE AT SEA Leaving South Georgia behind us, we ventured further south towards the frozen continent of Antarctica. It took us three days. Since we were the first voyage of the season, we had no idea what lay ahead. Would we see any Adélie Penguins? How much of the ice would have retreated? Would we actually be able to walk on the Antarctic Peninsula, which was where we were ultimately heading? Everything had been so good already, I didn't have high expectations. I was just open to whatever we would experience and enjoying it all. Over the course of the three days we were at sea, we weren't able to be out on deck that often as the conditions weren't great. I certainly didn't take many photos. On our first day, though, I was pleased to take a few nice ones of a Blue Petrel flying close to the ship.

South Georgia Day 4

By Lisa G Saw • April 8, 2025
GOLD HARBOUR The Plancius sailed down to the southern part of the island for our final day in South Georgia. It was yet another jam packed day and we had an early wake up call so we could fit everything in! First on the agenda was a landing at Gold Harbour. Even though we were seeing more of the same species we'd already seen, it turned out to be a fabulous place. In fact, it was probably one of my favourite landings. It's a compact beach filled to the brim with wildlife. I felt so close to it all, and unlike the day before, we were at ground level with most of it. This felt much more special. As was so often the case with our landings, the first wildlife we came across were the Elephant Seals on the beach. There were more youngsters stealing my attention, with those gorgeous big black eyes.
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