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Lisa G Saw • December 29, 2023

Autumn Tour Of Scotland - Part 1

I love visiting Scotland, seeking out new places as well as returning to favoured locations. Even though I've been several times over the last few years, I've never been up there during the autumn, around the time of the deer rut. I was thrilled to finally have the opportunity this year, even though I knew the chances of actually seeing any activity were extremely slim. As much as I wanted to see the Red Deer up in the Highlands, there were actually two other species that were higher on my 'Want To See' list for the trip - Mountain Hares and Ptarmigan. I've been lucky enough to see them before, but was eager for more wonderful experiences. I knew they'd still be just as potentially challenging to locate and photograph, with declining numbers even in favoured locations. It would certainly make the trip more of an adventure. The fact I wasn't going alone this time, but instead sharing the experience with Bob - on our first holiday together - made it even more special. I really hoped we would get lucky with our target species, especially as Bob had only seen one Mountain Hare before and never laid eyes on a Ptarmigan.

On the drive northbound - as well as southbound, at the end of the holiday - we stayed overnight in Ormskirk, so we could visit WWT Martin Mere. It was where I'd had the fabulous Stoat Encounter during the summer. We only had an hour before closing to visit the reserve at the end of our long drive north, so not much time! But, it was fabulous to see a male Marsh Harrier flying close to the hide in the evening light, just above the reeds. I also had one fleeting glimpse of a Barn Owl flying across the same field on the far side, but trees soon obscured my view.


Thankfully, we could enjoy a few more hours walking around the site on our way south. The reedbed walk didn't garner any sightings of a Bearded Tit unfortunately, a species that has so far eluded me, but I did enjoy seeing a large number of Snipe flying overhead. Shortly after, about half a dozen of them were spotted skirting the edge of the wetlands.  They were tricky to photograph as they weren't that close and other ducks and vegetation sometimes got in the way! But, I enjoyed watching them all the same as it's a species I've not seen often.

On the drive northbound as well as southbound (at the end of the holiday), we stayed overnight in Ormskirk so we could visit WWT Martin Mere. It was where I'd had the fabulous Stoat Encounter during the summer. We only had an hour before closing to visit the reserve at the end of our long drive north, so not much time! But, it was fabulous to see a male Marsh Harrier flying close to the hide in the evening light, just above the reeds. I also had one fleeting glimpse of a Barn Owl flying across the same field on the far side, but trees soon obscured my view.

Thankfully, we could enjoy a few more hours walking around the site on our way south. The reedbed walk didn't garner any sightings of a Bearded Tit, a species that has so far eluded me, but I did enjoy seeing a large number of Snipe flying overhead. Shortly after, about half a dozen of them were spotted skirting the edge of the wetlands. They were tricky to photograph as they weren't that close and other ducks and vegetation sometimes got in the way! But, I enjoyed watching them all the same as it's a species I've not seen often.

We had four bases during our mini tour of Scotland. The first was in the Loch Lomond and Trossachs area. We stayed at a lovely B&B on the west side of Loch Arklet on a road that ended at Inversnaid Falls nearby. We had a comfortable en-suite room, which overlooked the bird feeders in the garden. Our hosts were most welcoming and friendly and we enjoyed a lovely cooked breakfast each morning. It was in a beautiful, out of the way spot where we could go walking right from our door. That was part of its appeal. However, the drive back to Aberfoyle each evening for dinner was a bit tedious along the undulating, winding narrow road. It made me nauseous at times. Even though it had lots of passing places, we just hoped we wouldn't meet many vehicles coming the other way, especially the larger food delivery trucks. However, when we discovered The Faerie Tree Inn, we were happy to make the journey. With great quality food at an affordable price and friendly staff, we enjoyed eating there twice. We'd both go back to the area just to enjoy another meal there!

The weather wasn't the best those first few days, as it was mostly dull and grey. But, it didn't rain and there was very little wind. We did occasionally have glimpses of the sun, when there were breaks in the cloud. Although I didn't have the opportunity to photograph lovely reflections in the loch, the low lying mist over the water still made for some interesting arty shots.

The weather wasn't the best those first few days, as it was mostly dull and grey. But, it didn't rain and there was very little wind. We did occasionally have glimpses of the sun, when there were breaks in the cloud. Although I didn't have the opportunity to photograph lovely reflections in the loch, the low lying mist over the water still made for some interesting arty shots.

We enjoyed some lovely walks in the local area, in the Inversnaid nature reserve, around Loch Arklet and along the eastern shore of Loch Lomond. Whilst there wasn't an abundance of wildlife, we did have a fleeting view of a Dipper, some lovely closer sightings of a Treecreeper and Nuthatch, and disturbed some Hooded Crows scavenging for food. The highlight of those days was probably on the first day, when we walked above and beyond the nature reserve. We found a gorgeous picturesque burn (stream) and a lone tree. In the distance, we could hear the Red Deer stags roaring. It was like a teaser. I wanted to see more of the deers and not just hear them far away.

We enjoyed some lovely walks in the local area, in the Inversnaid nature reserve, around Loch Arklet and along the eastern shore of Loch Lomond. Whilst there wasn't an abundance of wildlife, we did have a fleeting view of a Dipper, some lovely closer sightings of a Treecreeper and Nuthatch, and disturbed some Hooded Crows scavenging for food. The highlight of those days was probably on the first day, when we walked above and beyond the nature reserve. We found a gorgeous picturesque burn (stream) and a lone tree. In the distance we could hear the Red Deer stags roaring. It was like a teaser. I wanted to see more of the deers and not just hear them far away.

I enjoyed visiting Inversnaid Falls too. We walked up to the higher level, which was worth the effort to see the mass of water tumbling down over the rocks. Conveniently, there was a bench near the top for us to rest and enjoy a hot drink. The only problem was, it made us feel very short! Our feet didn't touch the ground. It wasn't the only time this happened.

Late one afternoon we drove to Killin, enjoying a brief stop at Loch Lubnaig on the way. In Killin, the Falls of Dochart were as impressive as expected and we managed to reach it just before the sun went down.

The main purpose of the visit though, was to try and spot some Beavers at dusk. We walked along the river and saw some evidence of their presence, but unfortunately the creatures themselves eluded us. It was a shame, but we knew it would be a long shot, so we weren't that disappointed. It was an enjoyable scenic walk along the river all the same and we had a lovely meal at the Killin Hotel afterwards. However, the highlight unexpectedly came right at the end of the day on the drive back to Loch Arklet. It was dark and only the headlights from our car lit the narrow road ahead of us. A Weasel suddenly appeared from the side of the road. Immediately, I slowed right down. It stopped, looked our way, then jumped about a little frantically before quickly leaping and bounding back the way it came. We were both thrilled! It's the first time I've seen one in the wild.

From Loch Arklet we travelled north towards the Wester Ross area for our next stay in Ardarroch. It was a stunning drive with moody skies. We stopped a few times along the way at various scenic lookouts, including The Three Sisters, Glencoe.

In Ardarroch we stayed in a fabulous cabin overlooking Loch Kishorn. On our first evening, we walked down to the beach and surprisingly, we saw a Red Deer - our first for the holiday. I hadn't expected to see one so close. Later, we could hear bellowing, once again from the mountains. I was hopeful we'd be lucky and have some better views in daylight. However, Storm Babet had reached Scotland, bringing extremely strong winds to the west, with gusts well over 40mph. Not ideal for driving on a narrow mountain pass or walking in the highlands.

In Ardarroch we stayed in a fabulous cabin overlooking Loch Kishorn. On our first evening, we walked down to the beach and surprisingly, we saw a Red Deer - our first for the holiday. I hadn't expected to see one so close. Later, we could hear bellowing, once again from the mountains. I was hopeful we'd be lucky and have some better views in daylight. However, Storm Babet had reached Scotland, bringing extremely strong winds to the west, with gusts well over 40mph. Not ideal for driving on a narrow mountain pass or walking in the highlands.

We decided not to attempt a walk up in the highlands on the first day due to the high winds, but we did drive over the mountain pass - very gingerly, I might add - to Applecross. On the way up, there was a waterfall to one side of the road. The water cascaded downhill, but at the top, wisps of water were being blown upwards. We didn't see any deer high up on the mountain, but once we were lower down on the other side, we spotted a small herd of mostly hinds sitting in a field. Then down on the outskirts of the village, there was a large herd of stags where I'd seen them the year before. Whilst wild and free to come and go, they were all in one field, no doubt enticed there by food. It wasn't until later in the day, when we were driving back, that we were really lucky and spotted a young stag high up on the more rugged terrain, a little distance above the road. Then we heard the deep bellow coming from another stag higher up. Fabulous!

The main reason for being in the area, aside from seeing the Red Deer, was to go searching for some Mountain Hares and Ptramigan on the mountain. Our window of opportunity was diminishing, with only one more day there. But, still the wind was strong. It almost ripped the door open as I got out of the car at the top of the pass. We debated whether it was wise to give it a stab and attempt the walk up. I think we were both having doubts, but then spotted a couple walking down. It gave us the hope we could manage it, if we were careful. We certainly put on plenty of layers to protect ourselves from the cold and used the monopods to assist with walking. There were times the wind literally stopped me in my tracks, and other times, it knocked me sideways making me stagger as if I were drunk. This was perhaps not a good day for walking over uneven ground and on scree. The rocks would often wobble underfoot. I was always slow and careful, taking my time with each step, not least because we were walking uphill. Perhaps not so surprisingly, the Mountain Hares and Ptarmigans were taking shelter from the wind, which any sensible person would also be doing. Even though we didn't see any, we felt satisfied we'd at least tried.


On our way back down along the wide track, I suddenly spotted a hind with a juvenile. They weren't that far from us and thankfully didn't run away. It was fabulous having the opportunity to photograph them, though it wasn't easy. Despite using monopods, the wind made it extremely challenging to remain perfectly still. In our favour, at least, the light was improving somewhat. Although we didn't find what we went looking for that day, seeing the deer at the end made it all worthwhile.

That wasn't the last we saw of the deer either. I was keeping my eagle eyes open whilst Bob was driving us back down the winding pass. I spotted a small herd above the road, spread out on the mountainside. But, a few were eating grass very close to the road, near a large boulder. It wasn't exactly a place where we could stop easily for any length of time, but for a short spell, whilst there were next to no cars around, we managed to use the car as a hide and take a few photos without disturbing the deer at all.


Further down the road, we spotted even more deer and were able to stop the car and alight the vehicle. The day really had turned into a deerfest. I hadn't expected to see so many.

That wasn't the last we saw of the deer either. I was keeping my eagle eyes open whilst Bob was driving us back down the winding pass. I spotted a small herd above the road, spread out on the mountainside. But, a few were eating grass very close to the road, near a large boulder. It wasn't exactly a place where we could stop easily for any length of time, but for a short spell, whilst there were next to no cars around, we managed to use the car as a hide and take a few photos without disturbing the deer at all.

Further down the road, we spotted even more deer and were able to stop the car and alight the vehicle. The day really had turned into a deerfest. I hadn't expected to see so many.

The following day was wet and very overcast, but since we were driving east from Kishorn to Boat of Garten, it didn't disrupt our plans. It just meant we weren't able to fully appreciate the beauty of the scenery along the drive. We followed the north coast route to Torridon and then cut inland. The views of the mountains were impressive though. It was wonderful to see snow on the peaks of the mountains - the first of the season. I love the snow. I know it can be extremely inconvenient, but it makes everything look so gorgeous. I was excited at the possibility there would also be snow up in the Cairngorms, where we were headed.

The following day was very overcast and wet at times, but since we were driving east from Kishorn to Boat of Garten, it didn't disrupt our plans. It just meant we weren't able to fully appreciate the beauty of the scenery along the drive. We followed the north coast route to Torridon and then cut inland. The views of the mountains were impressive. It was wonderful to see the snow-covered peaks - the first of the season. I love the snow. I know it can be extremely inconvenient, but it makes everything look so gorgeous. I was excited at the possibility there would also be snow up in the Cairngorms, where we were headed.


Over the previous two days we'd worked fairly hard to locate any deer and photograph them. We were so chuffed we'd been lucky enough to have a few fairly close sightings. So, you can imagine our surprise when we pulled into a car park to find a Red Deer stag loitering right beside the cars. Despite signs warning visitors not to feed the deer, food had been left out on the ground in places. The temptation of an easy meal for the deer was overriding its natural instinct to avoid humans. Some people didn't seem to fully grasp it was a wild animal - one they probably ought not to interact with, for the sake of the animal as much as themselves. One woman thought it was a good idea to try and stroke it. Naturally, we were keen to take some photographs, but we tried to keep our distance - not easy when it would walk towards us. All the photos of the deers I'd taken before then were using my telephoto lens at its full length, but now, with it pulled in to its widest, the deer was filling the frame. Crazy!

Over the previous two days we'd worked fairly hard to locate any deer and photograph them. We were so chuffed we'd been lucky enough to have a few fairly close sightings. So, you can imagine our surprise when we pulled into a car park to find a Red Deer stag loitering right beside the cars. Despite signs warning visitors not to feed the deer, food had been left out on the ground in places. The temptation of an easy meal for the deer was overriding its natural instinct to avoid humans. Some people didn't seem to fully grasp it was a wild animal, one they probably ought not to interact with, for the sake of the animal as much as themselves. One woman thought it was a good idea to try and stroke it. Naturally, we were keen to take some photographs, but we tried to keep our distance - not easy when it would walk towards us. All the photos of the deers I'd taken before then were using my telephoto lens at its full length, but now, with it pulled in and it's widest, the deer was filling the frame. Crazy!

By the end of our first week, we'd certainly done well on our deer sightings. We just hoped our luck would continue for the second week with our quest to find Mountain Hares and Ptarmigan. A lot would depend on the weather and it was still looking very changeable and challenging for the week ahead. I remained optimistic, as we still had plenty more time. Plus, I was having so much fun and couldn't wait for more wildlife adventures with Bob.



Autumn Tour of Scotland - Part 2

Cumbria Highlights

By Lisa G Saw • November 15, 2024
After our wonderful holiday up in Scotland, which I've written about in my previous posts - the last of which was Other Mull Highliahts - Bob and I headed to Cumbria. It was a great way for us to break up our journey south. We were based in Kendal. We had three full days and three new butterfly species for me to find: Large Heath, Northern Brown Argus and Mountain Ringlet. None of these species can be found in the south and I'm currently on a quest to see all species of Butterfly in the UK (mainland). I knew it was going to be a challenge because once again, the weather really wasn't on our side with mostly rain, wind and overcast conditions. But, after our success in Fort William and seeing my first Chequered Skipper in less than ideal conditions, I was optimistic there was still a chance of success, albeit small. DAY 1 Our focus on the Saturday was the Large Heath butterfly. It's a species that's endangered in the UK because so much of its habitat has been destroyed. They like wet boggy land and Meathop Moss Nature Reserve is a great place to see them. It was less than 30 minutes drive from our hotel. We headed off in really dreary weather wondering how the day ahead would unfold.

Other Mull Highlights

By Lisa G Saw • October 3, 2024
There's so much to see on and around the Isle of Mull and I was so glad that Bob and I had two weeks to make the most of our time there. I've already written about some of the main wonderful experiences we had - Duart Castle , Iona, Lunga and Staffa , and Otterly Fabulous - but, there was so much more I could have shared. Unfortunately though, that would simply take too long. So, in this post I wanted to share some of the other highlights from our trip. WEEK 1 During the first half of our stay we were based in Dervaig. We had several trips in to Tobermory, partly because it was the closest place for us to buy any supplies we needed, but also so we could enjoy sauntering around the pretty harbour. The weather was very changeable the whole holiday, so I was grateful we had at least one sunny morning in the town, when the tide was in. The colourful row of buildings look so bright and cheerful. I don't seem to tire of this view. It makes me smile!
Puffin on Lunga

Visiting Islands Iona, Lunga and Staffa

By Lisa G Saw • September 18, 2024
June 2024 It was really wonderful to have two full weeks on the beautiful Isle of Mull in the spring. It gave us plenty of time to get around, explore and also relax. I've already written about the three different outings we had to Duart Castle during our time on the island, and how we were staying in Dervaig for the first week. During the second week, we had an equally fabulous self-catering cottage in Pennyghael, along the shores of Loch Scridain, which is in the south west part of the island. It was a great base for visiting the islands off the west coast of Mull via Fionnphort (below).
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