Cumbria Highlights

After our wonderful holiday up in Scotland, which I've written about in my previous posts - the last of which was Other Mull Highliahts - Bob and I headed to Cumbria. It was a great way for us to break up our journey south. We were based in Kendal. We had three full days and three new butterfly species for me to find: Large Heath, Northern Brown Argus and Mountain Ringlet. None of these species can be found in the south and I'm currently on a quest to see all species of Butterfly in the UK (mainland). I knew it was going to be a challenge because once again, the weather really wasn't on our side with mostly rain, wind and overcast conditions. But, after our success in Fort William and seeing my first Chequered Skipper in less than ideal conditions, I was optimistic there was still a chance of success, albeit small.

DAY 1

Our focus on the Saturday was the Large Heath butterfly. It's a species that's endangered in the UK because so much of its habitat has been destroyed. They like wet boggy land and Meathop Moss Nature Reserve is a great place to see them. It was less than 30 minutes drive from our hotel. We headed off in really dreary weather wondering how the day ahead would unfold.

After parking the car, we made our way along the muddy track to the boardwalk that looped around an area of boggy ground. It wasn't so surprising that I spotted this tiny froglet clambering around in the moist vegetation. It was a happy distraction for me, since there was no sign of any butterflies initially. The question was, would we see a butterfly before the dark clouds in the distance moved overhead and delivered a torrent of rain?

Well, thankfully, the answer was yes and we didn't have to wait too long. Bob spotted this lone Large Heath on the heather, with its wings folded - this species always rests with its wings closed. It was a beautifully fresh specimen with large rings on the underside, reminiscent of the Ringlet, but not in colour. It's the davus form that you find in Cumbria. It's one of three variations, based on geography. This form is unique to the southern part of their range. There's also the scotica form in Scotland and the polydama form in the area between the two other.

Luckily, we had quite a bit of time to photograph it before the first drops of rain were seen and felt.

It didn't take long before the heavens opened and we rushed to take shelter under a tree - meagre shelter, I should say. But, at least we were prepared and wearing our waterproofs. We sat around, waiting for the rain to pass. It took some time. There was even a clap of thunder not too far away. We could have given up and returned to the car, but we remained optimistic that the rain might ease enough for us to get a few more photographs with this butterfly. Assuming it was still where we left it. It was a pretty safe bet, since it wasn't likely to fly off in the horrendous weather!

Our patience was rewarded. Eventually, we were able to enjoy some more time photographing the butterfly, this time on the Crossed-leaved Heath.

We were both thrilled to have seen the Large Heath, not least because we'd had success on the most unlikely of days! Bob had only seen this species twice before, (once each for the davus and scotica forms), so he was just as happy as me. We both felt incredibly lucky.

At midday we left Meathop Moss and headed south to Arnside Knott. By the time we reached there, the rain was really chucking it down again and we didn't even bother to leave the car, other than to get our packed lunch from the boot. We stayed in the dry and warmth whilst eating, and abandoned any ideas of going for a walk. Instead, we figured a visit to RSPB Leighton Moss would be a better idea. They would at least have hides for us to take shelter in. It proved a worthwhile decision.

Amongst the wildlife delights that afternoon, we saw a couple of Marsh Harriers and had a lovely close sighting of a Cetti's Warbler. We also heard the boom of a Bittern in the distance, but sadly, it never took flight. From the Grisedale Hide, where we spent most of the afternoon, we saw a Roe Deer doe feeding amongst the tall grasses. Every now and then she would pop her head up above the grass.

A cool breeze was coming through the open window hatches of the hide, so we kept our coats and hats on. On the plus side, we could hear the noises from the bird life outside, which I found to be so relaxing. There was a steady flow of people coming and going from the hide, and some people stayed a long while, like us. We relished the quieter moments, when the hide fell silent. It was then I could hear the steady fall of light rain. It was actually very soothing.

There were moments of brightness during the afternoon when the clouds would part and reveal a small pocket of blue sky. Then just as swiftly the clouds would close ranks and the rain descended again - sometimes quite heavily. I enjoyed watching the Greylag Geese and Mallard ducks on the pond in front of the hide, both with young in tow. A pair of Coots with three chicks were also hiding amongst the reeds feeding. Then a Heron landed right in front of me less than 10m away and stole my attention for a while. I love how they stand totally still for absolutely ages. Only occasionally did it move its head from side to side. Then, after a long while, it started to wade through the water.

In complete contrast to the slow movement of the Heron, the Swifts were living up to their name, just above the pond and reedbed, and also above the trees in the distance. I don't think I've ever seen so many before. It was amazing! I love how they suddenly change direction and wheel around in the sky as they feed on the insects. I tried to photograph them darting past us, but with great diffiuclty. It's impossible to focus on them when they move so fast. I tried to capture the moment on video, but that didn't really do them justice either. Sometimes, you just have to enjoy the moment as it happens.

DAY 2

On the Sunday we focused our attention on finding the Northern Brown Argus at Arnside Knott. Thankfully, we didn't have the rain to contend with, but it wasn't particularly sunny. On the few occasions when some sun broke through the thin layer of cloud, the butterflies made themselves known and took to the wing. It gave me some optimistim for the day ahead.

My first treat of the day was a brief sighting of a Tawny Owl flying away from me, low to the ground, when I approached the tree it was perched in. I hadn't even seen it there. The next treat was our first Large Skipper sighting of the year. It had only just emerged, as you can see the meconium bubble at the base of its abdomen.

It took us longer to find our target species, but we did eventually. Bob disturbed it as we were walking through a small hillside meadow. It was a lovely little spot. The butterfly was busy nectaring and flying from flower to flower, but stayed in the immediate vacinity, which made it easier for us to photograph it.

I enjoyed photographing the butterfly from different angles. I've said it before, but I do love taking the underwing show from in front. I feel like I'm in the butterfly's world when I get down low like this.

Of course, it's always nice to get the classic open wing shot too from above.

The only issue for us was whether or not it really was a Northern Brown Argus. It looked just like the Brown Argus we find back home in Sussex. It didn't have the distinguishing white spot in the middle of the forewing and the orange spots were quite distinct too. Unfortunately, there can be quite some variety in markings across this species. So, although we were happily photographing it, thinking it might be what we were after, Bob wasn't confident it was.

We pressed on further up the hill, hoping for more sightings of the same species. Whilst passing through another bigger wildflower meadow, I spotted this gorgeous bright orange flower that really stood out amongst the crowd. I looked it up on my phone to see what it was: Fox-and-cubs. What a lovely name! I was just taking a photo of it, when all of a sudden a Small Pearl-bordered Fritillary photo bombed the shot. Well that doesn't happen every day! What a lovely surprise! It's a species that is widespread in Scotland and Wales but in severe decline in England.

Not far from the summit of the hill Bob spotted another Northern Brown Argus. We had only a few brief opportunities to photograph this one before it flew off. They were more grab shots rather than good photos. Despite our best efforts, we weren't able to locate it again. But, that one at least had some white in the middle of the forewings, so we felt more confident we'd at least seen a Northern Brown Argus.

On our way back down to the car park, as we gradually worked our way down the slopes, we found another one like the second. Unfortunately, one of its hindwings was damaged, which probably occurred as it emerged. But, I was pleased to get a nice photo of it with the wings closed. You can't see the damaged wing from this side!

To round off our visit at Arnside Knott, a gorgeous Speckled Wood posed nicely for me on a fern. I couldn't resist a click.

It was a weird day really, because I didn't feel the elation of the previous day, due to the doubts we'd had about that first potential Northern Brown Argus that we saw. But regardless, it was good to have finally seen one and I was pleased. It didn't matter that much that I didn't have a good open wing photo. Maybe we'd get lucky and see another one at Latterbarrow Nature Reserve, where we went on to afterwards. It wasn't much of a diversion from Kendal and there was still some daylight left.

When we arrived another butterfly enthusiast said he'd had a few sightings a little earlier there, so we started to explore ourselves, splitting up as we meandered around the paths. It was a lovely narrow long wildflower meadow surrounded by trees and filled with Oxeye Daisies. Although it wasn't that sunny, I still expected to see more insect activity. It was noticeably quiet. I spotted a Silver Y nectaring on a flower, and a bee sleeping inside a semi curled up flower, but I didn't spot any butterflies. I saw there was some Quaking Grass amongst the flowers. I love the colour of the flower heads and how they delicately dangle from their stems, shaking in the breeze.

Unfortunately, I didn't see a Northern Brown Argus after much searching. Bob, on the other hand, did have success. Sadly, that can be the case when you split up and I wasn't within his view so he could alert me. But later, when he found this stunning Four-spotted Chaser Dragonfly I was close enough to join him and get some photos. It was a lovely way to end the day.

DAY 3

Would we manage the hat trick and see the third new species for me in as many days? I hoped so. We specifically saved the search for the Mountain Ringlet to this day to help increase our chances of success. Weatherwise, it was forecast to be the driest, least windy and potentially sunniest day of the three. But, it was also our final day, so there would be no second chances.

Irton Fell, in the west of Cumbria, was where we headed. We knew this year there had already been sightings of our target up on the fell. We even had a map reference too, so there was every reason to be hopeful! Not only was the drive there lovely, but as we walked up the fell, I admired the views. The green rolling hills, plentiful trees, stone walls, craggy outcrops and distant lakes were just as I imagined Cumbria to be like.

Once we were above the trees, we ended up walking through some boggy grass areas, having gone a bit awry from the trail. We had the added challenge of avoiding some cows too. But, we finally made it up to higher ground and knew we were in the right area. Our eyes were almost constantly scouring the ground and just ahead of us, looking out for anything we might disturb whilst walking. Then suddenly, Bob disturbed a brown butterfly that flew off and landed just a bit further ahead of us. We were both surprised and startled, not expecting it to be that easy to see one. Result! My first Mountain Ringlet! Yay! I took a quick grab shot. It was a bit more like a Meadow Brown in colour than a Ringlet.

Of course, it didn't sit still. It flew from flower to flower, nectaring. I managed to follow it and take a few more record shots, but nothing amazing. I was just glad they were in focus and I was able to appreciate their wing pattern and how they're different to the much darker chocolate coloured Ringlets, which are more widespread.

Then all of a sudden it flew much further ahead, as if assisted by the wind, and it disappeared into the tall tussocks of grass. We spent ages looking for it, but to no avail. But, in all that searching we didn't disturb any others either, which was perhaps even more surprising. We did venture a fraction higher, but we had no joy there either. During the course of the afternoon there were a few other enthusiasts that turned up eager to see one, but they had no success either. We were at least grateful for the brief five minutes we'd had with our one and only one. It was a success, but followed by hours of fruitless searching. Maybe it was too cold and windy.

Eventually we gave up and headed back down to the car park. There was at least one more treat on our way down. Bob spotted this Lead Belle moth. It looked pretty fresh and there's a lovely silvery shimmer to the wing fringes.

Some days later, we heard that more could be seen higher up the mountain at another location. Perhaps if we'd known more about the site we would have ventured further. But then again, the weather was still far from ideal, so who knows if we would have had more joy on our final day. But, for the sake of my quest, I was happy. I'd at least seen one. Maybe in the not too distant future, we'll return to the area and have another stab at it.

On our drive back to Kendal we decided to stop off at Meathop Moss. By that time, the weather had improved. It was sunnier, warmer and less windy. The evening light was gorgeous and we were hopeful of seeing some more Large Heath butterflies. The stop proved worthwhile. As we walked slowly along the boardwalk we saw quite a few on the wing. Of couse, it was almost impossible to photograph them moving. It was only when a few settled close to the boardwalk that we got lucky with the photos. It was a good note to end the day on.

Despite the weather, our days spent in Cumbria really had been a success! I couldn't quite believe we'd seen all three species of butterfly that I'd wanted to see. On our final morning, when we were due to drive back home, we were both feeling a bit reluctant to leave. I didn't relish the long drive. One last jaunt to Latterbarrow seemed really appealing - one last chance to spot the Northern Brown Argus. It was just too tempting. So we delayed our departure and allowed ourselves just a few hours before heading south.

Once again, we split up and did our own thing. I enjoyed a mindfulness moment. I really wanted to savour the moment. I tried to pay as much attention as I could to everything that I saw and heard. I managed to ignore the sound of the cars in the distance and instead focused on the calls of the Song Thrush, Common Chiffchaff, Blackbird and Wren that I could hear periodically. I felt so relaxed. I wasn't even that bothered if I didn't see another Northern Brown Argus. I was just enjoying being out in nature in the cool morning, with no one else around and the soft smell of wildflowers in the air. I wasn't thinking about anything else. It was just in a blissful state of contentment.

During my amble, I spotted this mining bee that looked like it was wearing bright yellow pantaloons. Of course, it's just the pollen sacs that are attached to their hind legs. I love how they can do this, collecting pollen as they visit each flower.

Shortly after, I spotted a pair of Footballers mating! That's the common name for this species of Hoverfly (Helophilus pendulus) - Honest!

Out of the corner of my eye, I noticed Bob was talking to someone - another butterfly enthusiast had turned up. Eventually, they both made their way over to where I was standing. We chatted for quite a while and then dispersed again to continue our search for butterflies. No sooner had we parted, when Bob suddenly called out that he'd found a Northern Brown Argus. We were both swift to join him. I certainly didn't want to miss the opportunity again.

It was fabulous! Not only did it have the white spot in the middle of the forewing, but we had lots of opportunities to photograph this very fresh looking butterfly.

Not long after spotting this one, another appeared. For about an hour the three of us proceeded to photograph both butterflies. We more or less had the place to ourselves and chatted in between snapping away. During that time we discovered Mark was from Norfolk and just beginning his short trip to Cumbria. We shared some tips from our time there to help him. What was interesting to learn from Mark was how the Brown Argus hasn't made it as far north as Cumbria yet, so all the ones we'd seen on the Sunday definitely were Northern Brown Argus. It was good to have that confirmation and be certain.

I really enjoyed our last hour there. I was so happy having the opportunity to take several photos. I couldn't believe how different the morning had been to our previous encounters with this species. I marvelled at how things had turned out. It would have been very easy just to head home straight after breakfast, but instead, we had the idea to return to Latterbarrow and what a morning we'd had! The luck really was with us.

It was the perfect end to our amazing adventures up north. We were able to drive home happy with all that we'd seen and experienced. I was extra pleased because I was a step closer to seeing all the butterfly species within the UK. On the way home we even discussed the possibility of returning to Cumbria in the summer to see two more new species for me: the High Brown Fritillary and Scotch Argus. That quest would continue, but for now, our wonderful holiday up north had come to an end - but what a trip!