Searching for Mountain Hares

There are a few different species of hare in the UK, the Brown or European Hare (Lepus europaeus), the Scottish Mountain Hare (Lepus timidus scoticus), which can also be found in the Peak District, and the Irish Hare (Lepus timidus hibernicus), which is currently considered a sub-species of Mountain Hare but might actually be a separate species. The Mountain Hare is very similar to the Brown Hare in that it has long ears and hind legs, can run fast, doesn’t live in a burrow and is crepuscular (active at twilight) or nocturnal (active at night). However, unlike it’s brown relatives, in winter the Mountain Hare’s fur moults from brown to white (or partly white) to blend in with its surroundings in the northern and higher parts of the UK. It also has longer hind feet with thick fur for ease of movement on snow.

Photographing Mountain Hares in the Highlands of Scotland was one of my main priorities on my recent trip to the country. I’d seen fabulous photos of them in their winter pelage hunkered down in the snow, but with an ever-warming climate, it seemed unlikely there’d be that much snow early in March. I was also aware, with limited knowledge on where to find them, that it would be like looking for a needle in a haystack if I couldn’t arrange a guided session with a local professional photographer. This was looking like a very real possibility, as I’d only booked the trip just over a month in advance and all the photographers I’d contacted were already busy. In the end, two photographers were recommended who potentially were available, so I arrived in Scotland hoping for the best but with low expectations.

I discovered, whilst liaising with the different photographers, that Mountain Hare numbers have crashed in recent years and it’s becoming increasingly more difficult to find them. In Scotland they’re only protected during the closed season (Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981) from 1 March to 31 July. However, the shooting of hares doesn’t paint the full picture as other factors probably contribute to their decline such as disease, predation, habitat loss and the weather.

Early in the week my friend and I managed to arrange an outing with guide and photographer Eoghain Maclean (pronounced yo-in…I think!) With a passion for nature and the outdoors and formerly a mountain rescue volunteer, we knew we’d be in safe hands. He was confident he would find us some hares, which was reassuring. I hoped that wouldn’t only mean seeing one far off in the distance! Part of that concern was due to the added challenges my friend faced, as she struggles with arthritis. She was determined not to let it ruin her chances of seeing a Mountain Hare, but there were going to be some limitations. Having forewarned Eoghain, we set off on a cold sunny morning. Although we were walking on someone’s estate, the joy of exploring Scotland is that everyone has the freedom to roam on any land, as long as you act responsibly (if only we had the right to roam in England in the same way!)

We started to walk uphill, slowly zigzagging our way along a track at first. Periodically, Eoghain would disappear off in different directions as it was easier and quicker for him to do so. Every now and then I’d pause and have a look myself through the binoculars at the hillside above and across the gully searching for signs of life. To be honest, as much as I wanted to photograph the hares, just to see one was the first goal. I hadn’t expected the first sighting to be of one within about 20m, running away from us. It had been so well hidden in the heather, we’d disturbed it without even seeing it there! It didn’t run off too far, and settled back down. We took photos of it further away, but didn’t attempt to get any closer.

Eoghain was so patient and kind, finding a route up for us that my friend could manage. He’d periodically check how she was doing and offered a helping hand when needed. If we had to cross over some patches of compacted snow, he’d dig in his heels and try and create some small toe holes for her to step into. With the aid of two walking poles, she managed brilliantly, and in really difficult conditions.

As the morning progressed, a strong cold wind developed. At first, we’d been sheltered from it, but the higher we went the colder and stronger it became. When we reached the top of the first hill/mountain, at an elevation of about 600m, I felt the full force of it on my face as we were walking directly into it. Sometimes, a strong gust made me stagger sideways as if I were drunk. Every step forward was getting harder and slower. I don’t remember a time I’ve been out in such strong winds, in such an exposed spot, with no trees or rocks to take shelter. I looked over my shoulder towards my friend, nervous for her, but with her eyes fixed on the ground she kept going. Thankfully, we’d been prepared for the cold and had loads of layers on. The only place I felt it was around my face and ears. My friend, bless her, was having to work so hard that she complained she was roasting! I asked Eoghain what he thought the wind speed was, “About 40 or 50mph!” came his reply. Yikes!

We decided on a different route back down the mountain, avoiding any path and walking through the heather. Although it would be steeper, it wasn't too challenging and we could still zigzag downwards if necessary. Walking over a flatter section first, Eoghain pointed out some hare scat, it was rounded and a little larger than rabbit droppings. It was interesting to see a few scrapes too, where the hares had dug into the ground creating a small shelter from the elements. After taking a few photos, we carried on, glad to have the wind finally behind us. Suddenly, from out of a hidden spot in the heather further ahead of us, a hare bolted and seconds later another one followed, both quickly disappearing out of view. I was thrilled to see them, but at the same time sorry we’d accidentally alarmed them. It would’ve been lovely to see the two together, but more importantly, I didn’t want to cause any stress or disturb the hares.

Despite making our way back down, I still clung on to the hope we might see one more hare. Once again, Eoghain walked ahead, scouting the vegetation as my friend and I went more slowly. When we were about halfway, disappointingly, there was still no sign of any hares and we decided to break for lunch. We were sheltered from the wind, but also out of the sun. The temperature wasn’t much above zero. I was glad I’d made the effort to bring some lovely hot soup! From where we sat we could see three Mountain Goats grazing at the base of the slope, so that was something.

But Eoghain didn’t give up and funnily enough, not long after our break, he located a hare! Finally! Success! By now the weather had clouded over and we’d lost the best light of the day, so it wasn’t the best photographic opportunity, but I really didn’t care. I was just so happy he’d found one close enough to photograph. This is what had made all the hard work worthwhile!

I took my rucksack off and armed only with my camera Eoghain took me down to see it first. We approached the hare quietly, carefully and slowly, making sure we were as close to the ground as possible, doing our utmost not to disturb it. We scrambled low across the heather until the hare came into view. We were above its position less than 10m away. Eoghain encouraged me to move around very gradually into a better position whilst he went back to guide my friend down. I took a few photos taking advantage of the silent mode and then slid across the ground a bit further, then took another. I repeated this process a few more times, but was nervous of getting too close. I certainly didn’t want to spook it and definitely not before the others had come down to where I was.

At one point, I was lying back against the hillside at quite a steep angle, about 10 o’clock to the hare and the whole sunlit valley opened up in front of me. A smile spread across my face as I took in the moment, quietly waiting for the others to join me. The hare was motionless too, with its large white ears down low across its back, settled, seemingly relaxed, facing outwards too though keeping one eye on me. When I could see the other two near me, I began to inch further across and then started to shuffle down until I was eventually level with the hare, still taking photos periodically. I took several close up shots, but also wanted the context of where we were, so pulled back the lens to include the mountain in the background, and the patches of snow. For 30 minutes we enjoyed photographing and watching the hare, until it shifted position, turned away from me slightly. A noise had unsettled it. Soon after, it ran off. It was a shame, because I knew it’s possible to witness other behaviour when the hare feels totally relaxed, if you stay put long enough. It wasn’t to be on this occasion.

At one point, I was lying back against the hillside at quite a steep angle, about 10 o’clock to the hare and the whole sunlit valley opened up in front of me. A smile spread across my face as I took in the moment, quietly waiting for the others to join me. The hare was motionless too, with its large white ears down low across its back, settled, seemingly relaxed, facing outwards too though keeping one eye on me. When I could see the other two near me, I began to inch further across and then started to shuffle down until I was eventually level with the hare, still taking photos periodically. I took several close up shots, but also wanted the context of where we were, so pulled back the lens to include the mountain in the background, and the patches of snow. For 30 minutes we enjoyed photographing and watching the hare, until it shifted position, turned away from me slightly. A noise had unsettled it. Soon after, it ran off. It was a shame, because I knew it’s possible to witness other behaviour when the hare feels totally relaxed, if you stay put long enough. It wasn’t to be on this occasion.

Despite the strong winds, we thoroughly enjoyed our day and were thrilled to see four Mountain Hares. The weather perhaps had been a deterrent for others, as we only saw five other people all day on low ground quite a distance away. It was fabulous having the mountain to ourselves. On our walk back to the car we found some small clumps of white hare fur. It was incredibly soft and I kept a little as a momento. We were also treated to some lovely views of Long-Horned Goats, including a wee kid.

Eoghain explained how 10 years ago we wouldn’t have had to work so hard to see the hares - there’d be that many - even on the lower slopes. In fact, as luck would have it, we ended up having a second outing with him and we didn’t have to walk as high. No two days are ever the same! Before we’d struggled to find the hares, but the second day it didn’t take long before we had three hares all within our view at the same time. We didn’t have strong winds to contend with, but in between periods of sunshine, we had a snow shower. I love the snow, so didn’t mind, though I’d have been happier if it had settled on the ground.

This is the only photo I got of a hare on snow - actually it's in mid-air! It's not great - out of focus and bounding away - an all too familiar sight!

In the end, we saw five hares that day and I was thrilled because I actually spotted one through my binoculars, though as we got nearer I was worried I was mistaken, it also looked like a rock! We ended up exploring a slightly different part of the mountains where I’d spotted ‘my’ hare and we got some great shots of it sitting side on to us.

My favourite encounter that day though, was one too high for my friend to reach. It was closer to the snow – still not sitting on it mind! She waited below whilst Eoghain and I walked uphill to get a closer look. We scrambled the last part and stayed low to the ground. Then I wriggled along level to it, but slightly obscured by a low grassy ridge. Peering over the grass I was able to get a front on shot of a hare for the first time. Of course, it knew I was there. With its ears semi lifted, it looked at me mildly curious. We didn’t stay long and left it in peace.

Having sat in hides earlier that week viewing other wildlife, I realise that seeing wildlife in their natural habitat, without using any kind of food enticement, is what I love to do most of all and ideally with minimal disturbance or stress. It's the best experience! Having to work hard for a sighting just adds to the adventure and often gleans greater rewards and pleasure than a contrived situation. Ultimately, I truly feel happiest photographing nature in this way and it's what I'd like to do more of in the future.